Category: Uncategorized

  • Carbonara

    Carbonara

    The waiter at Osteria Ragno d’Oro, around the corner from the Ottaviano metro station not very far from the Vatican state, did not write anything down. He looked at my son, eleven years old and on his third carbonara in as many days, and gave the slow nod Romans keep for things that are correct.…

  • Su di giri

    Su di giri

    You hear Monza before you see it. We had taken the regional train out from Milano Centrale, a carriage so full of red shirts it felt like a terrace on wheels, and walked the last stretch through the Parco di Monza under old trees, past joggers and families carrying folding chairs, following a sound that…

  • Kraftwerk

    Kraftwerk

    One of my best friends learned German from a band. Not from the grammar book our teacher handed out, and not from the exchange week in München that everyone else talked about. He learned it in his room, with the same records playing over and over until the words stopped being sounds and started meaning…

  • Coup d’état

    Coup d’état

    On November 10, 1799, the 19th of Brumaire by the Revolution’s own calendar, soldiers march on the château of Saint-Cloud outside Paris. Napoleon Bonaparte walks into the Orangery, where le Conseil des Cinq-Cents sits, calm and almost solemn. But cries rise from every bench: “À bas le dictateur!” (down with the dictator!”) Someone shoves him,…

  • Bellet et Bandol

    Bellet et Bandol

    Ask anyone what they drink on the Riviera and the answer comes without hesitation: rosé. Pale, cold, bottled by the hundreds of millions across Provence every summer, it’s the wine of the terrace, the beach club, the long lunch that turns into evening — so ubiquitous that it’s easy to forget the region grows serious…

  • Fauve fantastique

    Fauve fantastique

    There is a moment, sometime in the early afternoon on the Côte d’Azur, when the light does something that is difficult to explain to someone who hasn’t seen it. It doesn’t just illuminate. It saturates. The white walls of the old town glow from within, the sea holds a blue that has no business existing…

  • L’ultima cena

    L’ultima cena

    There is a door in Milano that most tourists walk past without a second glance. It sits on the side of a red-brick church, unremarkable, easy to miss between a tram stop and a row of shuttered shopfronts. You need a ticket, booked weeks in advance, and a time slot. You wait in a small…

  • Everyone is a teacher

    Everyone is a teacher

    One of my best friend, B, is French. We met during university studies in Sweden where we both were studying Business administration. At that time I had been studying French in school but was really struggling speaking. I had even spent a few months in Aix-en-Provence studying French, without an immediate effect. Many years later…

  • Passions that unite us

    Passions that unite us

    Learning a language is not always associated with lust. Instead, thoughts might go to drilling vocabulary, struggling with tricky French verbs, or German pronoun forms that never quite stick. However, I am convinced that no one would turn down the opportunity to speak more languages. The feeling of effortlessly ordering a coffee in fluent French…

  • Places we dream of

    Places we dream of

    A key component in language learning is where the learning takes place. The two most common places today are probably the classroom and the smart phone. Learning a language in a classroom with a teacher is of course a very structured way of learning. And learning a language on a language app on your smart…